Having just undertaken a very good walk in the Salmonsdam region with Debby and Keith, I thought I would see how it fits together with the other walks we have done in the area. The attached map shows the Salmonsdam Reserve walk in green, the Boskloof walk in red and the latest one in blue. As you can see they are all pretty close together and one could go from one to another along the existing tracks.
Salmonsdam area Walks
Our route
Debby and Keith led us on a wonderful new walk a short distance to the east of their farm. We started by going up a track on the north slopes of Van Der Bijlberg, then across a neck to the north slopes of Tafelberg, down the eastern Tafelberg ridge and back to the road on the farm Helderfontein. The total distance covered was 15.3 km and we climbed from our start at 341 m to a height of 612 m, before returning to 311 m., with many undulations along the way. There was a threat of rain in the air and we had a cold north-wester blowing, but it didn’t rain and we stayed nice and cool – a perfect day to take a hike!!
Elsa, Renee and Debby
There were only eleven of us and we felt sorry for those who could not make it as it was one of the best walks we’ve had for a while, probably because it was completely new and the fynbos was at its magnificent best. Unfortunately there was one stretch near the start where a fair amount of pine and hakea was present, but once we were through that it was splendid all the way. Especially abundant were the brunias, mimetes and a great variety of restios, as well as very many different everlastings. As usual, there were many unidentified species.
We ended off by having drinks and a snack at Debby and Keith’s recently and beautifully renovated cottage on their farm, before returning home, exhausted, but ready for more such challenges.
We did decide to postpone our Christmas function this year and will be having a New Year’s party in mid-January instead. This will give more people a chance to attend, once the Xmas festivities are over. A notice will go out to all members detailing the new arrangements.
They're back
Can you believe it? Today at lunch time a new swarm decided that it too, liked our garden and it has swarmed at exactly the same place as the first one did a week ago. It is a much smaller swarm this time round. Lawton advised that they are probably just resting and that they are unlikely to stay there, so I’ll be patient and see what transpires. Perhaps they think this is a good watering hole along the way. We’ll just have to wait and see.
The prize
Well, today I got a local beekeeper, Lawton Roberts, to come and remove the hive from my valve box. This, you will remember, was found two days ago when I tried to get my sprinkler system fixed. He found a well-developed colony inside it, complete with combs and honey and he moved it all into a small wooden hive that he had brought along. This he has left in the garden and tonight, when the bees have all gone home, he will remove and that should be the end of that.
Now, hopefully, we’ll be able to proceed with the irrigation repairs!
Voel-kan-nie-sit-nie
Muraltia heisteria sounds just like any other plant to the non-botanist, but give it the name by which it is known in Wellington, South Africa, and it takes on a whole new personality! Believe it or not this plant is called “Voel-kan-nie-sit-nie”. Isn’t that a wonderful name? Thought I would share it with you. Its the sort of thing one never forgets.
Imagine my surprise, when looking round the garden last evening, to find a small swarm of bees hanging from a tree on the edge of our patio. Nice to know that nature is alive and well and doing the pollination thing, but did we really want them there? I think not. The question was, how to get rid of them, i.e. make them go elsewhere?
A lethal weapon in my tree
I tried some smoke, but the wind wasn’t helping. I tried spraying them with the hose, but they just ignored it. In the end I threw a stick at them, hoping to persuade them to leave in favour of a quieter life, but all they did was fall to the ground and proceed to swarm around the leg of my Weber braai! In the end I decided to leave them for the night and hope they would depart under cover of darkness.
Imagine my frustration this morning when I looked out and there they were, still clutching the Weber. Renée suggested a more forceful water spray, so I threw caution to the wind and went after them with the hose. They were spread apart by the water, but refused to relinquish their spot. You’ve got to give it to them, they don’t give up easily, but neither will I. At least they seem fairly benign, but woe betide me if I provoke them too much. As I write this they are still here, but less organised. Looks like its 1-1 going into half time!
Route map
We knew that it was going to be hot, but leaving Hermanus on Sunday afternoon in a pleasant 20°C did not prepare us for the scorching 37° that we encountered at Diemersfontein, our destination and the start of our Wellington wine experience. Fortunately we only had to meet our hosts and then proceed to our first wine tasting in the Diemersfontein tasting room, so it was bearable. The estate continues to produce big wines, dominated by the well-known, coffee-flavoured Pinotage.
On arrival at Diemersfontein
Our party comprised David Brice, Angela Heslop, Ian and Christine Ross, Mike and Koekoe Ravenscroft and Renée and me. We had all been to Diemersfontein in May 2004 as members of the Hermanus Wine Club and we found the estate much changed, but regrettably, not necessarily more hospitable.
On Monday morning we were met by our guides, Jeanette and Katrin who soon earned the respect of all with their intimate knowledge of the local people, their activities and their history. This walk was far more than a wine walk, as advertised – it would be better called a Cultural Experience.
Our group with Katrin and Jeanette
Our route on the first day took us up through pine forests and over the foothills of the the Du Toits Kloof. I think that we were all somewhat surprised by the extent of the local olive production, especially the Costa table olive orchards, with more than 5000 trees.
Olive orchards
Lunch at Cascade Manor
Cascade Manor was our destination for lunch. Originally built by the Duke of Bedford, it was recently refurbished and extended by its present owner, Volker Goetze, who now runs it with his wife, Maika, as a guesthouse and wedding venue. Volker gave us a detailed talk on olive oil and introduced us to the art of olive oil tasting. We all left with a new interest in the subject and an understanding of what to look for in a good oil, but not before we had enjoyed delicious lunch, with plenty of olives to whet our tastebuds.
Our next stop was at Druk-My-Niet, a small wine estate, where the wine maker, Abraham de Klerk showed us his range of excellent wines. His soon-to-be-released T³, a blend of Tannat, Tinta Amarello and Tempranillo was the high point of the tasting, although we were all impressed by the Fine Art Collection (and the art which inspired the labels).
Sculpture at Augusta Kleinbosch
From there it was a short distance down the hill to the Augusta Kleinbosch Guest Farm, where we were greeted by our hosts, Laetitia and Francois. We were now in the heartland of Afrikaans language and Jeanette and Katrin regaled us with stories of the first Du Toits who settled in the area in 1792.
At the Genootskap van Regte Afrikaaners memorial
We actually had rooms in the first Afrikaans school in the country, the Hugenot Gedenkschool built in 1833 and restored in its original form in 2001. Today the farm is a guava producer and it was fascinating to see the meticulously pruned guava trees through which we walked. We had covered a distance of around 12 kilometres and although the going was relaxed and easy, we enjoyed a cooling swim, followed by a very pleasant dinner in one of the historic buildings on the farm.
The Gedenkschool der Hugenoten
Tuesday’s task was to cover 16 kms to Val du Charron in the Krom River valley. Our guides were Jeanette and Carol (Katrin had a day with her horses). It was also a day dominated by three enterprising ladies.
The traditional Bloublommetjieskloof kitchen
Our first stop was at Bloublommetjieskloof, a biodynamic farm, owned and operated by Wendy Lilje. Here strict biodynamic farming principles are followed and Wendy explained these whilst we enjoyed a welcome coffee break. The farm demonstrated a holistic approach to living, where the people, animals and plants exist together as a sustainable whole. It is one of only two properties in South Africa which has managed to achieve Biodynamic accreditation and is therefore subject to rigorous annual inspections by the European parent body.
Renee and Angela with Wendy
A pleasant walk through forests and vineyards brought us to a picnic spot on a hilltop, where we met Elsabé Du Plessis, a dynamic lady who talked to us about “stokkies” (grafted vine shoots) buchu, olives and jam. What a wonderfully entertaining lady she was, with a wealth of information and a great sense of humour.
With Elsabe and her buchu and olives at Uitkyk
We were especially fascinated to learn about buchu and it uses. The farm, Uitkyk, is one of the biggest buchu pruducers and we even had a shot of her buchu brandy to ward off any ills.
Oil sacs on a buchu leaf
Buchu (Agathosma betulina) had long been recognised by the indigenous population as very potent herb, with many uses. The oil extracted from the fresh green leaves is extremely valuable and has become a sought after product by poachers, so that today farmers need to go to great lengths to protect their plantations
We then proceeded to Hildenbrand Wine and Olive Estate where we were entertained by the doyenne of South African olive production, Reni Hildenbrand. She showed us a fine selection of her wines and spoke at length about them and olive oil, whilst we enjoyed a light lunch and some fine cheeses. She provides a home for stray and abandoned animals and names a wine after one or two of them each year. We were lucky to sample Bonnie and Claire, a Chenin-Semillon blend named after her Bouvier twins. Reni is passionate about her wines and believes in doing things in the traditional way. A string of awards bears testimony to the quality of her products.
Lunch with Reni Hildenbrand
We arrived somewhat wearily at our destination for the night, the Val du Charron Wine and Olive Estate. Once again the pool was the first stop, after which we had dinner and were happy to fall into bed fairly early, but not before we had enjoyed the wonderful views over the Krom River Valley to the Hawekwa mountains beyond.
The view at Val du Charron
The Hawekwa mountains from Val du Charron
Full moon at Val du Charron
As if on command the full moon appeared on the horizon. The farm has been extensively renovated by its new owners, Stuart and Catherine Entwistle, who appear to have spared no cost in trying to create a guesthouse with what must be one of the best views in the area. A cellar tour with Catherine, who is studying to become a wine maker, revealed some unusual technology, such as flexi-tanks made of plastic and French Acacia maturation barrels. It was quite an eye-opener!
Groenberg, on the way to Val du Charron
On Wednesday morning we were met by our guides, Ron and Carol (Jeanette was having her day off) and driven a short way up the famous Bain’s Kloof pass. From there we walked downhill into a beautiful secluded part of the Krom River valley where we found the hidden farm, Doolhof.
On Doolhof
Doolhof art
A flight of excellent wines was presented for our tasting, culminating with The Minotaur, a Cape blend, which I really liked. The farm which is owned by Dennis Kerrison, has been extensively renovated and boasts a labyrinth (the word doolhof is Afrikaans for labyrinth and the name derives from the local topography).
Angela at Doolhof
We then wandered down a leafy road alongside the Krom until we arrived at Welvanpas, the historic farm that has been home to the Retief family for 305 years. The present owner, Dan Refief, talked to us about the history, whilst we enjoyed a pleasant lunch accompanied by a tasting of his wines in the old mill house. His comments were interspersed with many anecdotes, and the family history, which has been meticulously recorded by his aunt, is obviously something of a passion. The farm was the birth place of the famous leader of the Great Trek, Piet Retief, who set out in 1837 in search of greener pastures.
In the Die Ou Meul with Dan Retief
From Welvanpas we set out for the beautiful home of the Ferreiras, where we were able to see the wonderul garden established by Jenny Ferreira. A short ride by shuttle bus then took us to Bosman Family Vineyards. There we were met by Carla Bosman, who
Koekoe and Ian in the cellar museum
conducted us through the cellar, showing how the old and new have been successfully blended to form an impressive facility producing excellent wines. We were invited to taste a number of these which are made by Corlea Fourie and were bowled over by their quality. Amongst these was a Rosé made from 33 varietals grown in the Hemel-en-Aarde Valley at Hermanus. Besides being a wine producer, Bosman is also the largest vine nursery operation in SA, producing some 7 million grafted new vines per year from its ca. 1000 hectares of farms.
The Bosman maturation cellar and tasting room
A final night spent at Val du Charron brought our wine walk to an end. Ian treated us to a very good Bosman Pinotage at dinner time. We all agreed that the whole outing had been a great success and we can recommend this tour to anyone who is moderately fit and wants to spend a few days really getting to know a very beautiful part of our country. As I said earlier, it is more than just a wine walk – it is an experience in culture and history. All our guides performed excellently and were always on hand with answers to all our questions.
Part of our route
The walking took us along a variety of paths and tracks and we had ample opportunity to enjoy the forests and fynbos, as well as the vineyards and orchards. A total of 38 kilometres was covered on foot. Where there was a bit of a gradient, it was never too strenuous and there were many stops along the route to gather one’s breath and take in some water. Our cars were well stocked with a variety of local products for the journey home, and we all felt ready to add more oil and buchu to our diets, however, no further encouragement to drink more wine was needed!
Painted Lady, 'Voel-kan-nie-sit-nie' and an unknown bloom along the road
Today Renee and I visited the Book Fair at Fernkloof. There were many interesting books on display and I, somewhat cheekily, thought that perhaps I should have set myself up there to sign copies of my autobiography!!! A windgat idea, I know, but the actual reason for my writing this is to say that I managed to find a copy of Marie Vogts’ book, South Africa’s Proteaceae, published in 1982, but still a useful reference. With this at my side I should be better able to identify the species we encounter on our walks. Let’s hope so – and, let’s face it, I need all the help I can get!
The first thing I did with it was try to confirm a protea we saw at Genadendal on Wednesday. Lee thinks its a Protea nitida, but I’m not so sure. I think it might be a P. inopina, only occurring in a small area to the NW of the Olifants River mountains. Way outside its distribution area, but who knows – this may be a new locality for this unusual plant. It is shown below.
The enigmatic bloom
Vic led a group of 16 amateur and not-so-amateur botanists along the cliff path at Vermont this morning and was able to show us a wonderful variety of interesting plants. He had certainly done his homework (he told me that it took him a week to suss the place out) and led us directly to many good sites. Of course we also had Belle along. This wonderful lady never ceases to amaze me with her encyclopaedic knowledge of every species of our local flora. Her memory is quite incredible and being with her just makes one feel very, very inadequate! This is a group that I only occasionally join and I am certainly the one with the least knowledge, but I enjoy taking photographs of the flowers and trying to identify them myself, hence the large number of images without names in the selection presented below. I hope you enjoy them as much as I do.
We rounded the morning off with a visit to a site where considerable alien hacking had taken place and there amid the mess, we found the most amazing number of Hyobanche sanguine as well as the rare orchid, Disa hallackii.
Jessica joined Renee and me for a 9km hike up the Genadendal Trail to Wonderklippe and back. It was a cold windy morning, but it was clear, so we had good visibility, but battled to find flowers to photograph that were not being buffeted around by the wind.
Unfortunately the beautiful and abundant Erica hirtifolia was pretty much over and there were only a few that still showed pink, but there were many other interesting species to see and try to identify. We managed to name a few of them, but a large number still elude us. Of particular interest was the waboom-like protea with very vivid new red leaves. We have no idea what species it is and would love some feedback. Its flower is shown below. Also of interest were the ground proteas, of which three occur in the area. We could identify two, scabra and acaulos but the brown one with needle like leaves could not at first be named. Lee Burman then rescued us and suggested Protea decurrens, which seems to be a good bet. Perhaps the most spectacular blooms along the path were the red, pink and white Helichrysums.
We were also lucky enough to see a couple of Serruria rosea bushes with their beautiful and delicate pink blooms. Lee Burman kindly identified these for us.
We were fascinated to note that two infra-red sensor cameras have been set up along the path as part of the local leopard monitoring programme. On the downside, was the disturbingly rampant growth of new young pine trees which, unless controlled, will soon take over the upper slopes and area around Wonderklippe.
roncorylus 